[Read] Yum Cha and the Cricket

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A sleepless night leads Nicole Pingon to an unexpected conversation, and a dive into her sonic memory and imagination.

For this edition of Notes, participants in our Signal Boost programme have created audio stories around the theme 'Order'. 

You can find a full transcript below.


Transcript

[Backyard crickets and suburban sounds are heard in the distance.]

[A rustle of bedsheets, a large window slides open. The outside sounds can be heard more clearly, followed by a breath.]

[A single cricket sings out a short phrase.]

[The single cricket sings out again.]

[Rustle of bedsheets]

Hello?

[The Cricket sings. A gentle laugh erupts.]

Hi…!

[A lone cello string is plucked, and rings out.]

[The Cricket sings]

[The cello begins playing a short melodic phrase – feels unresolved, as if it’s asking a question.]

Why are you still awake? 

[The cello plays a downward spiral of plucked notes – as if in response.] 

[The Cricket sings.]

[The cello continues its melody – upwards.] 

Oh of course … you’re nocturnal.

[The cello continues it’s melody – downwards.] 

Well … I can’t sleep, because I can’t stop thinking about yum cha. 

[The cello melody – noodles up, and then down.] 

[The Cricket sings.]

[The cello moves upwards, then falls on an unresolved note.] 

I mean, of course yum cha’s about eating delicious food.

[A gentle percussive instrument – both woody and metallic in sound – plays a short phrase.]

Like xiājiǎo (虾饺 / prawn dumplings), shāomài (烧卖 / dim sim), fèngzhǎo (凤爪 / chicken feet), nuòmǐjī (糯米鸡 / sticky rice chicken) … but it's also about the rituals around it.

[The Cricket sings.] 

[The percussive instrument twangs, and rings out.] 

Well … Yum cha was pretty much a weekly occurrence for my family.

[The percussive instrument plays a repeated staccato phrase.]

We used to go on Sundays, after the lunch time rush, and hang around til’ close.

[The cello begins to dance – meandering with the words.]

I would always order mángguǒbùdīng (芒果布丁 / mango pudding), and ask for an extra drizzle of condensed milk. 

[The cello continues to dance – upwards, then down.]

And, I was never allowed to order rainbow jelly, so when I was instead given a bowl of dòufuhuā (豆腐花 / tofu pudding), I would completely overload it with sugar water, just to annoy my Mum.

[The Cricket sings.]

Hmmm …

[The cello continues to dance – upwards.]

My Dad would bring a pocket radio and listen to the races, and since it was already noisy inside, was bothered by it.

[The Cricket sings.]

[The cello concludes its dance. The percussive instrument gently takes its place, playing a slow melody, and each note rings out.]

Yum cha is a place where I expected to hear a bunch of dialects outside of the Mandarin I spoke to Mum. 

It’s where I’ve picked up tiny bits of Cantonese, and heaps yum cha etiquette.

[The percussive instrument ends on two staccato notes, followed by a ripple of sound – like grain slipping through metal, or rain falling.]

[The Cricket sings.]

[The percussive instrument plays a melody – gentle and metallic – and rings out.]

Yeah, it’s been a while since I’ve thought about that …

[The percussive instrument plays another melody that swells underneath the words.] 

[The Cricket sings.]

Oh I wish … but we can't go to yum cha right now … 

It’s the middle of the night.

[The Cricket sings.]

[The percussive instrument plays a pair of notes.]

Hmmm … alright then …

[A gentle cough – as if preparing for a speech.]

When I think about yum cha… 

[The cello strings swirl in a pattern up, down and around.]

I hear the bustle and buzz of conversations, 

I hear the clink of plastic chopsticks, as they stab through har gow, 

[Voices join and sing ‘clink’, a low string note plays – punctuating ‘stab’, a mouth joins with ‘sssssss’, and a breath. A chorus of mouths begin to mimic open mouth chewing.]

I hear open mouth chewing, and satisfied grunts as stomachs stretch.

[A low string note bowed – mimicking a grunt, and strummed strings ring out. A chorus of multiple voices sigh. A laugh is heard.]

I hear the plonk of chángfěn (肠粉 / sticky rice noodle) falling into bowls of sweet soy, and cups of jasmine tea knocked over the stamp card. 

[A low string is plucked mimicking ‘plonk’, followed by an upward melody. A metallic sound rings. The cello plays a short melody, followed by staccato notes.]

If the table cloth isn’t stained with tea and sauce… did you even go to yum cha? 

[The cello resolves the melody.]

[A moment of hearing sounds in the distance. The Cricket sings.]

Who’s to say Crickets can’t go to yum cha, hey. 

[The Cricket sings.]

So … where to next?

[The sounds of backyard crickets and a dog barking are heard in the distance. The Cricket sings.]