Jess Ho: Raised by Wolves

Jess Ho is one of the most influential voices in Australia’s bar and restaurant scene, well known for their searingly honest opinions on the hospitality industry.

Growing up confronting racism in the outer suburbs of Melbourne, Ho’s family’s traditional Cantonese cooking was both a comfort and a source of shame. As the Australian restaurant scene boomed, they embarked on a career in food writing at a time when the once ‘embarrassing’ foods of immigrant childhoods were quickly becoming commodified trends.

In their new memoir, Raised by Wolves, Ho weaves a coming-of-age story into an exploration of the industry they love, revealing the truths – both ugly and inspiring – behind Australia’s fine-dining obsession.

To celebrate the release of Raised by Wolves, Jess Ho spoke with host Clem Bastow about the role of food in their upbringing and offered a peek behind the kitchen door with their fierce, funny and razor-sharp lens.

Recorded on 28 July 2022 as part of the Melbourne City Reads series.

The Melbourne City Reads series is generously supported by George and Rosa Morstyn.